by Amy Grisak
For total control over your vegetable choices, you need to begin the season when there’s still snow on the ground. Starting your own plants allows you to grow your favorite varieties that may not be found in locally, and can save money in the long run.
Choosing seeds
If you think there are a lot of options in a well-stocked greenhouse brimming with plants in the spring, stand in front of a seed rack and try to narrow your selection. Thumbing through seed catalogs can be equally overwhelming. With outstanding descriptions and gorgeous photography, you might end up buying more seeds than you can possibly use or choose varieties that won’t do well in our climate.
When deciding what to plant, first consider the length of our growing season. Don’t choose a melon that needs 120 days. It won’t mature. We have 90 days on average, and even then, it’s not 90 days of ideal growing conditions. Your safest bet is to choose vegetables that mature in 75 days or less.
It’s always a good idea to have a basic list of the types of vegetables you need to grow, but leave room to try new ones. For instance, I always plant ‘Stupice’ tomatoes, a short season Czechoslovakian heirloom that produces no matter how terrible the growing conditions. Sometimes longer maturing varieties do just fine, but it’s good to have at least one or two standbys in your selection. Talk to other gardeners to gain some insight on what to try.
Serious gardeners often place their mail order seed orders by February to ensure they receive their desired varieties because companies do sell out of popular ones, especially with millions of new gardeners joining the market. But if you aren’t ready to delve into the mail order world, by mid-winter seed racks appear in most local nurseries. These are often good options because they often choose varieties geared towards this region.
What you need
You don’t need fancy equipment to start seeds. For containers you can reuse pots you have from the previous season. Just be sure to wash them thoroughly, and disinfect them with a mild bleach (or a heavier vinegar) solution before rinsing.
Be creative. As long as you make sure the containers are clean and have drain holes in the bottom to allow adequate drainage they should be fine. I use a lot of yogurt containers; both the individual sizes and quarts. And the clear berry containers are fantastic. Even cutting a side off of a half and half carton works very well. It’s much better to reuse them this way instead of tossing them.
The proper potting medium is critical. You cannot use standard garden soil because it’s far too heavy, plus it is filled with microorganisms that will wreak havoc on tiny seedlings. Purchasing a commercial potting soil is the best bet, especially if you’re new to this endeavor, to make sure you have a sterile, light mix with good drainage.
Finally, you’ll also need plastic wrap, plant markers (such as wooden popsicle sticks or the plastic ones), a pen and maybe a notebook (I write down what varieties I buy, when I plant, when they germinate and how they grow.)
How to plant
Fill your container with the potting soil and moisten it by either placing it in a sink with a little water in the bottom, or by watering it from above. Soaking from below provides more even moisture, but it isn’t absolutely necessary.
Read your seed packet, and plant the seeds as directed. Many tell you how many weeks prior to the last frost date to plant. For example, if the seed packet states to start the seeds 6-8 weeks before the last frost, plan on seeding the end of March or beginning of April. Calculate this for all of the plants so you don’t have over-mature plants that are leggy and weak a month before it’s safe to plant them outside.
Be sure to note whether the seed needs to be covered with a soil or not. Press the seeds slightly into the soil and spritz with water. Be sure to mark what you planted and the date on your plant tag.
Cover the container with plastic wrap to retain humidity, and place it in a warm place out of direct sunlight. I usually set mine on top of the refrigerator where it is warm, and out of the reach of the children.
What to do when the plants germinate
As soon as the plants emerge, it’s time to give them as much light as possible. The ideal situation is to have a rack with fluorescent lights suspended inches above the container, but not everyone has the space. Setting seedlings in windowsills will work if you’re diligent about moving them to keep up with the sun. I start my containers in the eastern windows, move them to the south by late morning, and end up on the west side of the house in the evening. If your seedlings grow spindly, it’s because they’re not getting enough light.
Keep the young seedlings moist, but don’t saturate because fungus and other diseases are more likely to thrive in overly wet conditions. Watering from below by setting them in a sink or tray of water works well.
Once the seedlings have their first true leaves you can transplant them to larger containers. Many young plants don’t need large spaces (such as the 4 or 6 packs at greenhouses), but the beauty of growing your own is you can give them an advantage from the beginning. I like to use quart-size yogurt containers for my tomatoes; I plant them very deep to give them plenty of stem on which to grow new roots. By the time they’re ready to go in the garden, they’re vigorous specimens that take without stress.
A week before planting in the ground, harden off the plants by setting them outside for increasingly longer periods of time throughout the day. Once it warms during the day, they can go out in a protected area for a little while. Try to keep them out of direct sunlight and strong winds for at least the first couple of days. Keep them out for a little longer the next day. This prepares the plant for the colder, less pampered conditions you’ve given them for weeks.
Starting seeds indoors definitely takes more time and effort than picking up a six pack at the store, but it allows you to grow varieties you’ll never find locally and can earn you bragging rights come mid summer.